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India-Pakistan Wagah Border Flag Lowering

One of the most amusing sights and activities while staying in Amritsar is witnessing the daily India-Pakistan Wagah Border Flag Lowering ceremony. The bitter hatred between the two countries comes at a stark contrast to the comical and almost pantomime show put on by the two armies every night. The over the top finger waging and high kick marching delights the crowds on both sides of the border and is a must see for all visitors to Amritsar.

The India-Pakistan border is by the small town of Wagah which was divided in two by the by the British at the independence of India. Wagah border crossing is located on the Grand Trunk Road which was the only road link between the two countries until the opening of the much smaller Aman Setu border in Kashmir in 1999. Today the Wagah border is the main road border crossing and a daily train service between the two capitals which is always massively delayed at the border.

 

The India-Pakistan Wagah Border Flag Lowering ceremony at the India-Pakistan border is very symbolic with the both of the gates being slammed shut at the same time and both flags being lowered at exactly the same time. The Indian army (Border Security Force) don their finest uniforms with elaborate hats and stride up and down the road with some of the highest marching kicks ever seen.

The Pakistani army (Pakistan Rangers) all dressed in jet black excite their crowds on the other side of the boarder by equally over the top actions. Sadly in 2010 the Pakistan Ranger’s Major General decided some of the ceremonial theatrics should be toned down, but hopeful the India Border Security Force’s traditions will continue. The participation in the India-Pakistan Wagah Border Flag Lowering ceremony is not just solely for the army the crowd are allowed and even encourage to be involved. Before the ceremony the crowds dance in the street and generally try to taunt the people on the other side of the border.

 

As the ceremony begins the crowds are pushed back into the stands and the atmosphere quickly changes into that of a major competitive sporting event with cheers and jeers from the stands. 10 years ago the crowd was even allowed to run to the shut gate and shout obscenities at the other side. The Wagah Border Flag Lowering ceremony at the India-Pakistan border takes place every evening just before sunset, but the event is very popular (especially at the weekends) so get there well in advance.

 

There is a stand which is reserved for tourists and semi important visitors. This tourist section is thankfully much closer to the border gate than the main stands and provides better views but do expect to provide a small donation. The town border town of Wagah is approximately 30 km (45 min drive) from the centre of Amritsar. A return trip by taxi including waiting time is between 900-1000Rs but do bargain hard.

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A festival atmosphere at the India Border Flag Ceremony The India Pakistan Border at Amritsar India-Pakistan Wagah Border Flag Lowering ceremony